Harbour Master Sailing Challenge 2019 to 2023 (Ireland still to be written up)

Sark Island

April 28, 2023
As with all Channel Islands, Sark became part of England thanks to William the Conqueror. Unlike the other islands, Sark was granted a "lease in perpetuity" to one man, the "Seigneur", by Elizabeth I in 1564. This lease passed into the Collings family in the 19th century. Mary Collings known as the "Dame of Sark" is from whom the current Seigneur, Christopher Beaumont, descends. We were fortunate to meet him and his wife Sarah who were friends of one of my crew - see photo 3. Very special!

The story of Sark's harbours is equally convoluted. Le Creux harbour was established in 1570 but due to the high cliffs a tunnel was cut to the bay in 1588. There are now two harbours and three tunnels - see photo 4. Navigating from the sea for the first time, it is quite tricky to comprehend the layout of the harbours and tunnels, but after a recce we decided to bring Good Dog inside tiny Creux harbour and dry her out against the inner wall.

Our pilotage was far simpler than that of 19th C steam ships which had to "hover" in the harbour entrance and disembark passengers onto steps built down into the "butt" of the breakwater - see photo 5. Eventually a new pier was built further north at Maseline Harbour in 1949, this also requiring a tunnel.

Overseeing both harbours is delightful HM Jim Hodge who came to Sark 20 years ago for a summer job. Sark has 500 people but no cars, and everything that arrives by boat has to be lifted off by crane and small enough to fit through the tunnel. When I asked him what was the largest item ever imported, with a twinkle in his eye he said "The crane!".

Photo 10 shows how to celebrate May Day in style at Sark's Beltane festival.

Thank you Jim and Jason for a brilliant stay in Sark. @sark_island #sark_island

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