River Blackwater
April 6, 2022
HM 173. The River Blackwater - lower reaches.
This low lying, deliciously muddy part of Essex is home to traditional sailing - Thames barges, gaff rigged smacks, bumpkins and others. These boats live in the numerous creeks and estuaries all the way up to Maldon. The people who live here are fiercely proud of the area and we found out why.
Our first stop, was the river Colne which used to be navigable up to Colchester. At high water you can reach the beautiful villages of Wivenhoe, Fingringhoe and Rowhedge.
As the tide ebbed (and I watched my depth sounder like a hawk), we sailed slowly west, along the south side of Mersea Island. Sitting on a West Mersea Sailing Club buoy, a local member came aboard and told us how the islanders are passionate about two things - sailing boats and the joy of being cut off from the mainland at high tide. Richard T once raced his boat to Holland and back, leaving after work on Friday and getting back in time for Sunday lunch at the club - still wearing his tie!
Our next stop was Tollesbury Saltings and the marina hidden away up a very shallow creek. Good Dog's keel came close to the bottom, so we deployed our tender to travel the last half mile. The saltings are natural creeks which create hundreds of perfect "half tide" moorings. The wonderfully named Fellowship Afloat Charitable Trust run the saltings from their lightship HQ and I may come and end my days here!
To the south, on the Dengie Hundred (look it up!) is the conspicuous Bradwell Nuclear Power Station. Next door is a friendly family run marina where Arthur Thurtle (Photo 1) has been HM since he was 21 - possibly a record. I can highly recommend them and their engineer Steve who saved Good Dog's bacon. As we departed west we sailed past the actual Radio Caroline - the boat that is still rocking!
This low lying, deliciously muddy part of Essex is home to traditional sailing - Thames barges, gaff rigged smacks, bumpkins and others. These boats live in the numerous creeks and estuaries all the way up to Maldon. The people who live here are fiercely proud of the area and we found out why.
Our first stop, was the river Colne which used to be navigable up to Colchester. At high water you can reach the beautiful villages of Wivenhoe, Fingringhoe and Rowhedge.
As the tide ebbed (and I watched my depth sounder like a hawk), we sailed slowly west, along the south side of Mersea Island. Sitting on a West Mersea Sailing Club buoy, a local member came aboard and told us how the islanders are passionate about two things - sailing boats and the joy of being cut off from the mainland at high tide. Richard T once raced his boat to Holland and back, leaving after work on Friday and getting back in time for Sunday lunch at the club - still wearing his tie!
Our next stop was Tollesbury Saltings and the marina hidden away up a very shallow creek. Good Dog's keel came close to the bottom, so we deployed our tender to travel the last half mile. The saltings are natural creeks which create hundreds of perfect "half tide" moorings. The wonderfully named Fellowship Afloat Charitable Trust run the saltings from their lightship HQ and I may come and end my days here!
To the south, on the Dengie Hundred (look it up!) is the conspicuous Bradwell Nuclear Power Station. Next door is a friendly family run marina where Arthur Thurtle (Photo 1) has been HM since he was 21 - possibly a record. I can highly recommend them and their engineer Steve who saved Good Dog's bacon. As we departed west we sailed past the actual Radio Caroline - the boat that is still rocking!