Harbour Master Sailing Challenge 2019 to 2023 (Ireland still to be written up)

North Berwick

July 8, 2021
One of my more elusive Harbour Masters...

By the time I had caught up with Ross Harbison (council employees have long holidays!) we had sailed past North Berwick and famous Bass Rock.... but unperturbed I took the coastal bus back north from Dunbar to track him down. Photo 1 shows him a little surprised by my ambush!

North Berwick is a relaxing resort and I do understand why a HM doesn't need the hassle of a visitor wanting to interview him. Wide sandy beaches, a pretty harbour in a sheltered bay full of lobster shacks, ice cream parlours and a brilliant seabird centre - the place attracts thousands of tourists every day.

However it is not always like that in North Berwick as photo 7 and 8 show. Despite the fact the harbour faces virtually south, the force of a northerly storm can never be underestimated. In 2010 waves broke over the sea wall and washed away nearly all the boats in the large dinghy park. On that day the HM definitely earned his pay.

Bass Rock (photos 4 and 9) dominates this part of the coast and is described as one of the "wildlife wonders of the world". 150,000 northern gannets breed on Bass Rock during the summer and return each year to the same spot. They are extraordinary birds and one of my favourites to watch from Good Dog, spotting prey from up to 70m above the sea, they dive headfirst into the water and swallow each fish whole before reappearing. Video 10 gives you a good idea of the spectacle.

Once he got over the surprise of my visit, Ross did have some interesting stories. Once, when crewing a Fishery Protection vessel he was shipwrecked himself on Herwit Rock off Edinburgh. Another time a regular thief was taught a lesson when his boat starting sinking while stealing lobsters.... little did he know that the pots belonged to the Coxswain of the Lifeboat.... shall we just say he never did it again!

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