Lochinver
August 13, 2020
13 Aug 20. We now return across the bumpy "Minch" (see video slide 10) to the mainland - to the strange harbour of Lochinver. It is here I discover three ghosts and a wonderful Spanish fisherman...
The first ghost of Lochinver is the ghost of "Scottish Fishing Past". Once the west coast's busiest fishing port, home to 60 Scottish registered fishing boats, there are now none. The 24,000 sq ft fish shed (photo 6) which used to sell tons of cod and haddock, is now empty.
The second ghost resides in the hills around Lochinver and is the ghost of "Lairds Past" - famous names like Sutherland, Westminster and Vestey, all previous owners of this landscape made famous by the distinctively shaped mountains including Quinag, Canisp and Suilven (photo 5). Since 2003, Scottish law has allowed local communities to "buy back" any land that comes up for sale. Famous cases have been the island of Eigg, Knoydart Foundation and the 44,000 acre Glencanisp Estate at Lochinver. When I enquired about the success, or otherwise, of this community purchase - the lovely lady who did my washing simply said - "It is better the devil you know!".
The third ghost, is the notable absence of the staff at the Highland Council offices at Lochinver. The council manages 10 major harbours and employs 8 Harbour Masters. Despite their smart offices, I was unable to track anyone down! A story for another time, but there are enormous differences between a harbour managed by the local authority and a harbour run by a Board of Trustees. (PM me!)
The Spanish fisherman I met was Alejandro Alfeirán. It is he and his fishing boat the Grand Saint Bernard (photo 9) I will write about next. The HM Joe Mackay was on holiday when I arrived, but Harbour Masters are never really on holiday and within minutes I had "bumped into" him in the village and nabbed a photo of him...sorry Joe and thank you for having me to stay in your harbour!
The first ghost of Lochinver is the ghost of "Scottish Fishing Past". Once the west coast's busiest fishing port, home to 60 Scottish registered fishing boats, there are now none. The 24,000 sq ft fish shed (photo 6) which used to sell tons of cod and haddock, is now empty.
The second ghost resides in the hills around Lochinver and is the ghost of "Lairds Past" - famous names like Sutherland, Westminster and Vestey, all previous owners of this landscape made famous by the distinctively shaped mountains including Quinag, Canisp and Suilven (photo 5). Since 2003, Scottish law has allowed local communities to "buy back" any land that comes up for sale. Famous cases have been the island of Eigg, Knoydart Foundation and the 44,000 acre Glencanisp Estate at Lochinver. When I enquired about the success, or otherwise, of this community purchase - the lovely lady who did my washing simply said - "It is better the devil you know!".
The third ghost, is the notable absence of the staff at the Highland Council offices at Lochinver. The council manages 10 major harbours and employs 8 Harbour Masters. Despite their smart offices, I was unable to track anyone down! A story for another time, but there are enormous differences between a harbour managed by the local authority and a harbour run by a Board of Trustees. (PM me!)
The Spanish fisherman I met was Alejandro Alfeirán. It is he and his fishing boat the Grand Saint Bernard (photo 9) I will write about next. The HM Joe Mackay was on holiday when I arrived, but Harbour Masters are never really on holiday and within minutes I had "bumped into" him in the village and nabbed a photo of him...sorry Joe and thank you for having me to stay in your harbour!