Kinlochbervie
August 16, 2020
6 Aug 20. Kinlochbervie is a "Godforsaken" place. I say that to grab your attention!
Up until the early 1800s, life in this top corner of Scotland was very tough. Lairds rented land to subsistence "crofters". No roads, building materials or agriculture. Appalling weather.
Then in 1820 the hills inland of Kinlochbervie were violently "cleared" of people. To quote the Duke of Sutherland's factor, Evander McIver "People wandered about in sheepskins and goatskins—being destitute, afflicted, tormented; they wandered in the mountains, their children were born under rocks and in caves by the sea shore. Their sick and their aged were subjected to unspeakable hardships till death mercifully released them". KLB (as it is known) became a village of refuge for displaced people.
Jumping to 1947, the North Sea was already being "fished out" and KLB, being a very sheltered harbour, had a fantastic opportunity to land catches from the NW scottish waters teeming with fish. It was a gold rush. Successful "seine net" fishing was developed, valuable white fish took over from herring and money was being made by (mainly east coast) boat owners, crew and processors. Local people even subscribed to help build a better road to the railhead of Lairg 50 miles away. The good times rolled.
Business continued to boom, and the new very well protected harbour (photo 3) was blasted out in the 1980s when Scottish fishing was at its peak. KLB became Scotland's 3rd largest fishing harbour with 50 resident boats and a thriving market. Since then activity has declined but there is still a active fish auction. I was lucky enough to meet both the current HM Gary Mitchell and Ian Munro (pictured) who has been the resident fish auctioneer for 35 years. As in most other UK harbours, nearly all the fish being landed was departing directly to the continent - but for how long with Brexit looming?!
For yachtsmen KLB is a friendly, welcoming and very safe refuge when on a passage around the notorious Cape Wrath which is just ten miles to the north - Good Dog's next destination.....and the wind was getting up!!
Up until the early 1800s, life in this top corner of Scotland was very tough. Lairds rented land to subsistence "crofters". No roads, building materials or agriculture. Appalling weather.
Then in 1820 the hills inland of Kinlochbervie were violently "cleared" of people. To quote the Duke of Sutherland's factor, Evander McIver "People wandered about in sheepskins and goatskins—being destitute, afflicted, tormented; they wandered in the mountains, their children were born under rocks and in caves by the sea shore. Their sick and their aged were subjected to unspeakable hardships till death mercifully released them". KLB (as it is known) became a village of refuge for displaced people.
Jumping to 1947, the North Sea was already being "fished out" and KLB, being a very sheltered harbour, had a fantastic opportunity to land catches from the NW scottish waters teeming with fish. It was a gold rush. Successful "seine net" fishing was developed, valuable white fish took over from herring and money was being made by (mainly east coast) boat owners, crew and processors. Local people even subscribed to help build a better road to the railhead of Lairg 50 miles away. The good times rolled.
Business continued to boom, and the new very well protected harbour (photo 3) was blasted out in the 1980s when Scottish fishing was at its peak. KLB became Scotland's 3rd largest fishing harbour with 50 resident boats and a thriving market. Since then activity has declined but there is still a active fish auction. I was lucky enough to meet both the current HM Gary Mitchell and Ian Munro (pictured) who has been the resident fish auctioneer for 35 years. As in most other UK harbours, nearly all the fish being landed was departing directly to the continent - but for how long with Brexit looming?!
For yachtsmen KLB is a friendly, welcoming and very safe refuge when on a passage around the notorious Cape Wrath which is just ten miles to the north - Good Dog's next destination.....and the wind was getting up!!