Holy Island, Lindisfarne
July 16, 2021
HM 143. Sailing into Holy Island harbour was a magical experience. The Holy Island of Lindisfarne, to give it its full name, sums up the beauty and history of Northumberland.
A quick history of Holy Island: The Irish monk St Aidan came from Iona in Scotland and founded English christianity at Lindisfarne in AD 635. Soon afterwards the monastery's most famous prior St Cuthbert died. When his undecayed remains were discovered 11 years after his death, they were moved into a shrine which became the site of pilgrimage which lasts to this day. From the land the island is protected by a tidal causeway, but by sea, access is fairly straightforward. By 875AD the monks got fed up with Viking raids and moved St Cuthbert's remains off the island. 200 years later, in 1104, they were enshrined in Durham cathedral where he rests to this day.
It is not often I find a harbour master who I feel does not really want to do the job, but I think Paul Douglas might be one of those. As a fisherman, he got landed the job (ha ha) 8 years ago and I literally had to run half way around the island to catch him.... My theory, talking to some of the other 160 residents, is they simply get fed up with hosting 650,000 visitors every year!
That said, it is the most incredible place, and if you can arrive by boat, the experience doubles in pleasure. The magnificent Old Law stone beacons (photo 6) guide you into the protected anchorage. The castle towers over the harbour entrance and as you walk up from the beach, past the 12th Century abbey you cannot help being overwhelmed by the history surrounding you.
I actually feel quite sorry for the residents - and they must breathe a sigh of relief every time the tide is high and they get this magical place back to themselves.
A quick history of Holy Island: The Irish monk St Aidan came from Iona in Scotland and founded English christianity at Lindisfarne in AD 635. Soon afterwards the monastery's most famous prior St Cuthbert died. When his undecayed remains were discovered 11 years after his death, they were moved into a shrine which became the site of pilgrimage which lasts to this day. From the land the island is protected by a tidal causeway, but by sea, access is fairly straightforward. By 875AD the monks got fed up with Viking raids and moved St Cuthbert's remains off the island. 200 years later, in 1104, they were enshrined in Durham cathedral where he rests to this day.
It is not often I find a harbour master who I feel does not really want to do the job, but I think Paul Douglas might be one of those. As a fisherman, he got landed the job (ha ha) 8 years ago and I literally had to run half way around the island to catch him.... My theory, talking to some of the other 160 residents, is they simply get fed up with hosting 650,000 visitors every year!
That said, it is the most incredible place, and if you can arrive by boat, the experience doubles in pleasure. The magnificent Old Law stone beacons (photo 6) guide you into the protected anchorage. The castle towers over the harbour entrance and as you walk up from the beach, past the 12th Century abbey you cannot help being overwhelmed by the history surrounding you.
I actually feel quite sorry for the residents - and they must breathe a sigh of relief every time the tide is high and they get this magical place back to themselves.