Harbour Master Sailing Challenge 2019 to 2023 (Ireland still to be written up)

Alderney

April 17, 2023
17 April 23. Alderney - cute but with a surprising source of income...

Entering the massive outer walls of Braye harbour, you expect to see half the Royal Navy at anchor, for that is the reason this 1,500 metre breakwater was built in 1864. Now it is home to 70 visitor mooring buoys - probably the most I have ever seen in the whole of the UK.

Within minutes of mooring up, a delightful water taxi driver, Victoria, came to say hello to us and inform us that she was on call until midnight. This friendly theme continued with everyone we met on the Island, home to just 2,000 people.

The geography of Alderney could be described as a rocky coast with a sandy interior full of interesting flora. Its recent history is very evident, if a little less spoken about. During WW2 the whole island was evacuated (unlike the other Channel Islands) and the Germans constructed both labour and concentration camps as well as enormous concrete fortifications. Locals (a "local" has lived here for 30 years, whereas an "islander" less than 30) are happy to talk about the recent past, but the real joy of the place is its near perfect size and easy going manner. We walked around the whole coastal path in half a day and every car has its keys in the ignition!

Harbour Master Adam Rose is very much a local. Originally a builder, he worked on the harbour staff for 18 years, before being promoted to HM last year. He told me his biggest challenge is recruiting young staff - they are in hot demand. With a small workforce of six he oversees two supply ship arrivals every week bringing everything except the post. Cars get put inside containers, diesel arrives to fuel the power station and building materials are highly sought after. In the summer yachts and cruise ships add to the traffic.

As for income, Alderney is home to the domain names of some well known online gambling businesses, which contributed over £2M to the state's purse last year - clever them!

If you have never visited here - do - you will love it. Thank you Adam and team for hosting us.

@guernseyharbours

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